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When curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.